Troubleshooting Your Aquatek

PLEASE NOTE: All warranty work must be carried out at our Thirsk workshop. 

This guide will help diagnose certain fixable issues we have come across to ensure you can stay on the road with your Binzruz Aquatek.


Thanks for buying a Binzruz Aquatek machine or even just looking into the maintenance of owing one. There’s 3 MUST DO regular steps to ensure minimal issues with your machine

  • At the end of each day, ensure the sink and the filters are thoroughly clean, this will ensure the unloader valve lasts longer. Finish each day with a soapy warm wash to look after your paintwork and graphics (This should take around 20 mins)
  • Check your tyre pressures are 50PSI at least once per month, failing to do so will lead to unevenly worn tyres & Reduced fuel economy
  • Servicing your machine 6 Monthly is essential Thousands of litres of recycled water in the previous 6 months will pass through your pump.

*Engine: Loncin g200 Pump: Interpump W154 when ordering spares*


There are certain factors to consider when servicing.

  • Must be done 6 Monthly
  • Main serviceable parts: Pump/Engine/Hydraulics
  • Secondary serviceable which should be checked monthly anyway: Trailer tyre pressures (50PSI) & Greasing lifting bearings.

Completing Service:

  • Unloader Valve: Replace the unloader valve (K5.1 is the unloader you require) a picture shows you below where this is located, if for any reason you have no pressure and all usual checks are made and have completed the trouble shoot, the unloader valves is 90% of the time the reason for lack of pressure, avoidable if you ensure each day filter and sink is cleaned and unloader is changed 6 monthly.
  • The Pump: First thing, replace the pump oil, again we recommend Rutland pumps for the correct oil. Then replace the valves inside the pump, a simple 30min job max, just crack off the 6 ports shown below and you will see 6 individual valves, these must be changed every 6 months, though they can be cleaned prior again if pressure has dropped. Typically lost pressure is a damaged unloader but second port of call would be the valves, due to recycling water sometimes any plastic or dirt that escaped the sink filters can get stuck in the spring in the valve stopping it going up and down creating the pressure needed.
  • The Engine: A simple oil, spark plug and air filter change.  These can be found by searching ‘Loncin g200 service kit’ or calling Rutland pumps and asking them for the service kit, alternatively get in touch and we can sell you one.
  • Lance Nozzle: If desired change the nozzle for up to a 40 Degree fan nozzle, again using Rutland pumps, though we don’t always change them 6 monthly they do wear over 1-2 years so it’s worth replacing them every other service.
  • Hydraulic Oil: Check the Hydraulic oil 3-6 Monthly. Usually it won’t need adjusting until each service but check the level is correct, the level can be checked in the hydraulic tank under the bonnet next to the spot light switch (see Spares and Components section to see it in detail).

Troubleshooting Guide:

Lack of pressure

If your pressure has dropped rest assured its 99% certain it’s one of 4 things.

  1. Not enough water in the tank
  2. A damaged unloader valve
  3. A blocked or damaged pump valve
  4. A blockage in the line somewhere.

Start with checking you have at least 100-150ltr of water in the tank (remember the draw pipe is set to 2’’ off the bottom for the tank to avoid sucking sludge through the pump).

Once checked this, focus on the unloader valve, when was it last changed? Over 6 months ago? We recommend (as mentioned earlier) to change these 6 monthly.

While they have been known to last longer, prevention is always better than the cure. Change this and see if this fixes the issue.

If the unloader is new, check the valves on the pump for trapped dirt in the springs removing them carefully with long nose plyers. The valves must be handled and refitted with care, if you have no experience seek a professional to carry out this kind of work.  That said for anyone with basic knowledge it’s a 20 minute job! We are confident that these two checks will fix the issue but if not, remove the hose from the pump to the swivel, then fire the machine up.  If there’s water coming out the side of the pump you know it has a blockage in the final hose section or nozzle (replace nozzle).  If no water comes from the pump you know the blockage is in or before the pump.

No lights on my trailer

Rest assured your trailer light set up is simple (see image below).  You have 3 components.

  1. A 13 pin plug
  2. 3M of 5 core wire
  3. Your physical light cluster.

Therefore, if your lights stop working, simply plug in a NEW lighting board and see if that works, if not you know the van electrics are the issue. If the lighting board works you know its one of the 3 components. Unfortunately Trailer lights are known for seeping water in which sadly can happen after 6-12 months but some lights have been known to go for 2 years.

We would always start by replacing the rear light clusters which can be found online or any local trailer place for £20-30.

Once replaced, if the lights still aren’t working, you have either the plug to change or it’s the 5 core 3M wire which can stretch over time. To confirm we would always start with the rear light clusters, then the plug then the actual wire.

Hydraulics wont lift

A rare issue but a possible one none the less.  If your hydraulics won’t lift, we recommend listening while pressing the button. Is it trying to lift or does it sound like its struggling? If it sounds quiet or its struggling or even slow its likely the battery is dead, to check this turn your spot lights on your trailer see how they cope as they both power from the on board battery.

If they sound like they are working but no lift, simply lift the bonnet and check that the two wires (Up & Down) are

  • Securely in place
  • Lighting up red when you press the buttons, the lights indicate they are receiving the instruction via the button.

If no noise, charge your battery and try again.  If still nothing and no sign of loose wires, it can only be the Hydraulic motor under the bonnet, these typically last 3-5 years and can be sourced by us here at Binzruz Limited as the set up is custom to the machine needs. Please note: the hydraulics are capable of 2.5T so they are more than capable for their job.

Engine won’t fire up

This is usually another simple diagnostic.  Check your battery level is full.  If it is and your engine on the start button is doing nothing/or clicking its likely the starter motor is damaged/broken.  These can be bought via Rutland pumps, just give them the engine model “Loncin g200 electric start”.

Starter motors usually last 2 years or more but it depends on the use of your machine.  They constantly go on and off, on and off so they get some wear. It’s possible that if its making no effort to start on the button that it’s the fuse (Located just next to the engine) be sure to check and change this before taking the starter off.

I have an oil leak

There are 2 oils on board your Aquatek.

  1. Hydraulic oil (white box on front of the hydraulic pump)
  2. Engine oil located in the engine (check with dip stick)

The hydraulic tank must be kept at 75% full at all times.


To check for hydraulic leaks you have two pipes on the ram which can be accessed via side panel. Work the hydraulic up and down whilst someone looks for a leak. If nothing there. open the front grill and check the oil on the engine, ensuring everything is turn tight and no oil is obvious anywhere.  Make sure you don’t overtighten anything.

I have a Fuel Leak

If you have fuel leaking from here it most likely your fuel float is stuck. Its a fairly simple fix, take the chamber off the bottom using a 10mm spanner and manually move the valve float, freeing it and using the fuel to keep it lubricated, it could be just a bit of grit keeping it stuck in the up position causing it to drip petrol. Once you have done this put it back in the same way you took it out and tighten the 10mm nut. Please note: to cut the fuel off, the on and off fuel level is the bottom black one below the choke and the rev leaver on the side of your machine.

Hydraulic Pump

This is the hydraulic pump, the black box is the pump, the rear transparent cube is the hydraulic oil level (check this on every service!)

The arrows show the 2 wires Up & Down, when correctly wired and engaged they will light up red indicating a connection is made.


Pump & Valves

This is the pump and below is the valves.

As you can see the 6 ports (Fig 1) shown have one valve (Fig 2) each inside them, a MUST change when servicing and worth checking if water pressure is ever lost.


Unloader Valve

The k5.1 Unloader is a MUST keep spare and is the number 1 reason for lack of pressure.

It’s vital having one on the shelf to ensure you don’t lose out on a days work over something so vital.


Starter Motor

This is the starter motor located at the back of the engine. 

For less than £50 its worth keeping one on the shelf spare just in case.


Trailer Lights Electrics

The full package needed to replace all rear trailer lights.

1 x 13 pin plug

1 x 5 core wire (3m)

2 x led trailer lights

Fairly inexpensive and worthwhile keeping in the garage for a rainy day in case you damage any.


Engine Fuel Leak

The arrow points to the bolt needed to unscrew to remove the bottom panel and gain access if the fuel float is stuck.

A 10mm spanner is used.  First make sure it is tightened as vibrations could have shifted the bolt resulting in a leak.  If secure go ahead and remove the bolt and follow the guide above.


Hopefully this should keep your trailer in a good working condition and allow you to self diagnose any issues.

Only after trying the instructions above and any obvious visual errors, if you still can’t find the fault give us a call and we will try our best to diagnose the problem, but bear in mind we can’t see the issue over the phone.  If in any doubt consult an expert or someone experienced with electrics or jet washes/pumps.

Under regular use, normal conditions and kept correctly maintained your trailer should work without problem.  We have created this guide based on our day to day working knowledge and from using the machines daily.  Every manufacturers machines are different and we have tried to minimise the potential issues that could occur.

We also welcome constructive feedback on our machines.