Lack of pressure

If your pressure has dropped rest assured its 99% certain it’s one of 4 things.

1. Not enough water in the tank
2. A damaged unloader valve
3. A blocked or damaged pump valve
4. A blockage in the line somewhere.

Start with checking you have at least 100-150ltr of water in the tank (remember the draw pipe is set to 2’’ off the bottom for the tank to avoid sucking sludge through the pump).

Once checked this, focus on the unloader valve, when was it last changed? Over 6 months ago? We recommend (as mentioned earlier) to change these 6 monthly.

While they have been known to last longer, prevention is always better than the cure. Change this and see if this fixes the issue.

If the unloader is new, check the valves on the pump for trapped dirt in the springs removing them carefully with long nose plyers. The valves must be handled and refitted with care, if you have no experience seek a professional to carry out this kind of work.  That said for anyone with basic knowledge it’s a 20 minute job! We are confident that these two checks will fix the issue but if not, remove the hose from the pump to the swivel, then fire the machine up.  If there’s water coming out the side of the pump you know it has a blockage in the final hose section or nozzle (replace nozzle).  If no water comes from the pump you know the blockage is in or before the pump.

No lights on my trailer

Rest assured your trailer light set up is simple (see image below).  You have 3 components.

1. A 13 pin plug
2. 3M of 5 core wire
3. Your physical light cluster.

Therefore, if your lights stop working, simply plug in a NEW lighting board and see if that works, if not you know the van electrics are the issue. If the lighting board works you know its one of the 3 components. Unfortunately Trailer lights are known for seeping water in which sadly can happen after 6-12 months but some lights have been known to go for 2 years.

We would always start by replacing the rear light clusters which can be found online or any local trailer place for £20-30.

Once replaced, if the lights still aren’t working, you have either the plug to change or it’s the 5 core 3M wire which can stretch over time. To confirm we would always start with the rear light clusters, then the plug then the actual wire.

Hydraulics wont lift

A rare issue but a possible one none the less.  If your hydraulics won’t lift, we recommend listening while pressing the button. Is it trying to lift or does it sound like its struggling? If it sounds quiet or its struggling or even slow its likely the battery is dead, to check this turn your spot lights on your trailer see how they cope as they both power from the on board battery.

If they sound like they are working but no lift, simply lift the bonnet and check that the two wires (Up & Down) are

• Securely in place
• Lighting up red when you press the buttons, the lights indicate they are receiving the instruction via the button.

If no noise, charge your battery and try again.  If still nothing and no sign of loose wires, it can only be the Hydraulic motor under the bonnet, these typically last 3-5 years and can be sourced by us here at Binzruz Limited as the set up is custom to the machine needs. Please note: the hydraulics are capable of 2.5T so they are more than capable for their job.

Engine won’t fire up

This is usually another simple diagnostic.  Check your battery level is full.  If it is and your engine on the start button is doing nothing/or clicking its likely the starter motor is damaged/broken.  These can be bought via Rutland pumps, just give them the engine model “Loncin g200 electric start”.

Starter motors usually last 2 years or more but it depends on the use of your machine.  They constantly go on and off, on and off so they get some wear. It’s possible that if its making no effort to start on the button that it’s the fuse (Located just next to the engine) be sure to check and change this before taking the starter off.

I have an oil leak

There are 2 oils on board your Aquatek.

1. Hydraulic oil (white box on front of the hydraulic pump)
2. Engine oil located in the engine (check with dip stick)

The hydraulic tank must be kept at 75% full at all times.

The engine oil to be checked via dipstick, BOTH OILS SHOULD BE CHECKED ARE AN THE CORRECT LEVEL BEFORE OPERATION

To check for hydraulic leaks you have two pipes on the ram which can be accessed via side panel. Work the hydraulic up and down whilst someone looks for a leak. If nothing there. open the front grill and check the oil on the engine, ensuring everything is turn tight and no oil is obvious anywhere.  Make sure you don’t overtighten anything.

I have a Fuel Leak

If you have fuel leaking from here it most likely your fuel float is stuck. Its a fairly simple fix, take the chamber off the bottom using a 10mm spanner and manually move the valve float, freeing it and using the fuel to keep it lubricated, it could be just a bit of grit keeping it stuck in the up position causing it to drip petrol. Once you have done this put it back in the same way you took it out and tighten the 10mm nut. Please note: to cut the fuel off, the on and off fuel level is the bottom black one below the choke and the rev leaver on the side of your machine.